I've spent a few days in le Marque, the Italian province. Le Marche is South of l'Emilia Romagna, West of Umbria and North of l'Abruzzo. On the East there is the Adriatic Sea, very blue, out of a green and steep coast, sometimes difficult to access, but always worthwhile. Its beaches are not of sand but pebbles.
It was the middle of September and there were very few people, usually quiet, walking or reading or sunbathing for the sake of it (it was sunny but the sun and the light were very pale, not enough to get a tan), as it's usually the case in September. It was difficult to imagine how it might be in the middle of the summer, and you ended up thinking, or dreaming, that it wasn't mainly a touristic coast, that somehow the difficulty in reaching its beaches had prevented it from becoming so. Then, in Sirolo, one of the villages by the coast, there was further support for this dream-idea: among several benches overlooking the sea, we saw this one of the photo, where you could sit giving your back to the sea and watching instead the people walking along the road, as people in small villages tend to do after dinner in summer evenings. It was as if, when installing the village benches, in the midst of the touristic frenzy, somebody had nevertheless remembered them, the village all-year-round inhabitants, and their enjoyment not just in contemplating the sea but also in taking turns walking up and down, to digest dinner better, and sitting to watch others do so.